Also, have you asked your local BMW dealer?

DAS
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"Humble One" <nom…@meansnospam.com> wrote in message

news:e1Nvc.18844$eH1.8567915@newssvr28.news.prodigy.com…

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> Dumb question,

> Do any of the major car rental agencies rent BMW, specifically X5?

> Need for couple days for a Chicago-Minneapolis round trip.

news:4cba308889dave.sound@argonet.co.uk…

> In article <40c114c4$…@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com>,
>    Mike G <mikgibbs at tiscali dot co dot uk> wrote:
> > Maybe a non std fan will be replacing it, after seeing that the OEM one
> > appears to cost around £100 !!.

> 137gbp according to my new Eurocarparts cat which arrived yesterday.
> Dunno if it’s possible to open them up and fix them – it’ll probably just
> be the armature that’s burnt out.

They can always be opened up.
Reassembly might need a bit more ingenuity.

Whilst it is possible to get small motors rewound, IME it’s usually not
economical. Even less so if the commutator and brushes are also worn.
Commutators  can be skimmed, but finding new brushes to fit can be a pain.
If it’s a simple fix OK. Otherwise there appears to be ample space to fit a
non std fan assembly. 12 volt fans are common enough on modern cars.
I’m not far from GW Bridges near Crawley. I’m sure a browse round his yard
will turn up a fan I can fit. Maybe even a good used BMW one, though it does
seem a fairly common failure especially on older BM’s.
From what I gather the OEM one has three speeds, presumably by using a
temperature sensor to control the supply voltage. Those also appear to fail,
giving one speed only. All getting a bit complicated for me.
One speed should be enough to keep the a/c air cool whilst stationary or
crawling along in traffic.
Mike.

> Maybe a non std fan will be replacing it, after seeing that the OEM one
> appears to cost around £100 !!.

137gbp according to my new Eurocarparts cat which arrived yesterday.
Dunno if it’s possible to open them up and fix them – it’ll probably just
be the armature that’s burnt out.

–
*How do they get the deer to cross at that yellow road sign?

    Dave Plowman     dave.so…@argonet.co.uk     London SW 12
     RIP Acorn  

news:4cba01a27adave.sound@argonet.co.uk…

> In article <Qt7wc.12458$xt5.1…@bignews2.bellsouth.net>,
>    Rod Gray <rodg…@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> > You can remove it from the top. Remove the fan and shroud, unbolt the
> > radiator, push it toward the engine unscrew the aux fan and you can work
> > it out. It is a tedious procedure. Be carefule not to damage the rad or
> > condensor.

> Easier to remove the bumper, surely? You can then also clean out all the
> crap that probably cause the fan to fail..

Removing the bumper sounds the easiest way as long as the bolts, screws etc
are not too rusted. If they are, the top method offers an alternative, so
thanks for both suggestions.
Maybe a non std fan will be replacing it, after seeing that the OEM one
appears to cost around £100 !!.
Mike.

> You can remove it from the top. Remove the fan and shroud, unbolt the
> radiator, push it toward the engine unscrew the aux fan and you can work
> it out. It is a tedious procedure. Be carefule not to damage the rad or
> condensor.

Easier to remove the bumper, surely? You can then also clean out all the
crap that probably cause the fan to fail…

–
*"I am " is reportedly the shortest sentence in the English language. *

    Dave Plowman     dave.so…@argonet.co.uk     London SW 12
     RIP Acorn  

"Hamid Saeed" <no…@nowhere.com> wrote in message

news:40c0d7a4$0$20516$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com…

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> "Mike G" <mikgibbs at tiscali dot co dot uk> wrote in message
> news:40bfabb3_2@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com…
> > 525i, ’94 wide grille model.
> > The a/c works. The condenser fan doesn’t. It appears to have siezed.
> > I turned it, using a screwdriver through the grill, but it’s still quite
> > stiff, so is probably burnt out, and will need replacing.
> > Anyone know if the fan be removed and replaced by simply removing the
> > radiator grille and panel?
> > TIA.
> > Mike.

> Hi Mike,

> You need to remove the front bumper to get at the mounting screws at the
> bottom and to disconnect the power connector to the fan. I had an 1996 E34
> 518i and this is what I had to do to replace it. The fan comes out from
the
> bottom. I don’t believe you can get it out from the top. If anyone knows
> better, then please correct me. Taking the bumper off is not a big job,
> about 10 minutes if that.

> Regards,
> Hamid

Hi Mike,

You need to remove the front bumper to get at the mounting screws at the
bottom and to disconnect the power connector to the fan. I had an 1996 E34
518i and this is what I had to do to replace it. The fan comes out from the
bottom. I don’t believe you can get it out from the top. If anyone knows
better, then please correct me. Taking the bumper off is not a big job,
about 10 minutes if that.

Regards,
Hamid

>> http://bmwz.org/articles/engine/oil-leaks/camplate/

>> It may apply to other models; I noticed the o-ring is also
>> the fix for 2002 oil pressure sender leaks.

>> Comments, flames, suggestions welcome;

>Interesting that the o ring was on the wrong bolt.  It must have been
>leaking for quite some time then?  Or did you recently aquire this car?

Yeah, I got the car last July and have been fiddling with it
here and there but not actually driving it.

It, um, isn’t actually fixed now, it just sprays less oil. Damn.
I’ll degrease it again and look at it at idle with a dental mirror
and see if I can figure out where it’s coming from.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> This applies to the 633, 635, 533 and similar cars with the M30
> motor.

> I mostly drive a Mercedes diesel, what do I care about oil
> leaks? "Things just leak sometimes". Yeah well, this leak you
> can’t really ignore, the seepage from a messed up rear
> cambox plate drips onto the exhaust and generate volumous
> quantities of oil smoke from the engine compartment. Come to
> a stop after freeway-speed driving and it’s pretty obnoxious.

> I wrote up the fix here:

> http://bmwz.org/articles/engine/oil-leaks/camplate/

> It may apply to other models; I noticed the o-ring is also
> the fix for 2002 oil pressure sender leaks.

> Comments, flames, suggestions welcome;

Interesting that the o ring was on the wrong bolt.  It must have been
leaking for quite some time then?  Or did you recently aquire this car?

-Fred W

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

Somebody wrote:
> "Phil Robyn" <zippro…@berkeley.edu> wrote in message
> news:2ibsdgFlpsscU1@uni-berlin.de…

>>Randolph wrote:

>>Thanks for your informative response.  I suspect that the bearings are
>>probably worn out in the compressor, so I have decided to replace it with
>>a new (not used or rebuilt) one.  I have also decided to stick with R12
>>instead of converting.

> Curious about your reasoning…. I would have gone R134a in that situation.
> In fact I did once upon a time.

> Care to share?

> -Russ.

Bavarian Professionals in Berkeley, which works on both of my BMWs, will guarantee
a new compressor but not a used or rebuilt one, so I don’t want to take the chance
of having to pay for another three hours’ labor if a used or rebuilt compressor
turned bad and had to be replaced.  I talked over the R134 conversion with them,
and their experienced opinion is that I would be better off sticking with freon
and not converting, at least not with this car.  So I am basically going with
their recommendations.

Thanks to everybody who responded to my question!  You guys are great!

–
Phil Robyn
Univ. of California, Berkeley
1987 E28 535is
1991 E34 M5

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