New to buying an auto over internet. The seller is out of my state (IL), do
I pay sales tax? Does this vary by state?
Thanks.
July 28, 2010
OT – Internet auto purchase sales tax????
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On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 00:33:38 -0500, "Pedaler"
<ggbra…@wideopenwest.com> wrote:
>New to buying an auto over internet. The seller is out of my state (IL), do
>I pay sales tax? Does this vary by state?
When you register the car in IL they’ll charge you a use tax. If
the car is over 10 years old, that’s $25 flat rate, otherwise it’s
based on the price of the vehicle.
Emanuel
—
1983 Porsche 911
1983 Porsche 944
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
"Pedaler" <ggbra…@wideopenwest.com> wrote in message
news:I4-dnR9DcrErlF3dRVn-uw@wideopenwest.com…
> New to buying an auto over internet. The seller is out of my state (IL),
do
> I pay sales tax? Does this vary by state?
> Thanks.
It probably depends on where you live. Here in Florida, when you register
the car for the first time, you need to present proof that you paid at least
6% sales tax. If you paid less than 6%, the state will charge you the
difference at that time.
Kyle.
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
Any idea what the % would be? I’ve tried looking this up on their site but
can’t find anything pertaining to this. The car I’m considering is a 1995.
Thanks again.
"E Brown" <epbrow…@att.net> wrote in message
news:bmc0c0d3m3hrgri521odpai0jqm29ch5fk@4ax.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 00:33:38 -0500, "Pedaler"
> <ggbra…@wideopenwest.com> wrote:
> >New to buying an auto over internet. The seller is out of my state (IL),
do
> >I pay sales tax? Does this vary by state?
> When you register the car in IL they’ll charge you a use tax. If
> the car is over 10 years old, that’s $25 flat rate, otherwise it’s
> based on the price of the vehicle.
> Emanuel
> —
> 1983 Porsche 911
> 1983 Porsche 944
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
"Pedaler" <ggbra…@wideopenwest.com> wrote in message
news:Go2dnfLWdeGm513dRVn-ig@wideopenwest.com…
> Any idea what the % would be? I’ve tried looking this up on their site
but
> can’t find anything pertaining to this. The car I’m considering is a
1995.
> Thanks again.
It should be on your state’s DMV website. In VA the url is
http://www.dmv.state.va.us, you can probably replace the va with your state
abbreviation. Here in VA it is 3% sales tax.
John
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 08:33:43 -0500, "Pedaler"
<ggbra…@wideopenwest.com> wrote:
>Any idea what the % would be? I’ve tried looking this up on their site but
>can’t find anything pertaining to this. The car I’m considering is a 1995.
I don’t know the percentage (I’ve never bought a car newer than 10
years old!) and I can’t find it on the Secretary of State web site
either, though they list the forms needed (RUT-25 or RUT-50, depending
on who you buy from, dealer or person). Apparently they like to
surprise you with the amount
Emanuel
—
1983 Porsche 911
1983 Porsche 944
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 08:30:19 GMT, E Brown <epbrow…@att.net> wrote:
>On Fri, 4 Jun 2004 00:33:38 -0500, "Pedaler"
><ggbra…@wideopenwest.com> wrote:
>>New to buying an auto over internet. The seller is out of my state (IL), do
>>I pay sales tax? Does this vary by state?
> When you register the car in IL they’ll charge you a use tax. If
>the car is over 10 years old, that’s $25 flat rate, otherwise it’s
>based on the price of the vehicle.
> Emanuel
That’s not quite true… If the car is over 10 years old AND less than
$15000 market value/selling price, THEN it is $25. If it is over $15K,
you pay the tax rate based on the county you live in & fill out an
RUT-25 (dealer purchase) or RUT-50 (private purchase).
Just a hint: If you are having the car shipped: Have the shipping billed
separately or else you will pay tax on the combined amount…ask me
how I know
David
(Paid $25 tax for his ’83 Porsche 928S (euro spec of course) and will
pay quite a bit more for the ’93 Porsche C4 sitting in his garage that
has yet to be registered…)
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
On Sat, 05 Jun 2004 03:12:17 GMT, david.schu…@comcast.net (David
Schultz) wrote:
>That’s not quite true… If the car is over 10 years old AND less than
>$15000 market value/selling price, THEN it is $25. If it is over $15K,
>you pay the tax rate based on the county you live in & fill out an
>RUT-25 (dealer purchase) or RUT-50 (private purchase).
>Just a hint: If you are having the car shipped: Have the shipping billed
>separately or else you will pay tax on the combined amount…ask me
>how I know
>David
>(Paid $25 tax for his ’83 Porsche 928S (euro spec of course) and will
>pay quite a bit more for the ’93 Porsche C4 sitting in his garage that
>has yet to be registered…)
Hey, I bought an ’83 928S this weekend, US-spec, which gives me all
three models sold in the US that year, each in Guards Red with black
leather interior.
I hate trying to ship a car (expensive, always takes too long), so
I flew to the east coast and drove it back to Chicago over the
weekend. Had a bit of adventure when the fuel pump relay died on me
500 miles from home. I managed to jerry-rig it and make it the rest of
the way home. Other than that, the car is great.
Of course, this purchase means I won’t be getting the Bimmer…
Emanuel
—
1983 Porsche 911
1983 Porsche 944
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 00:53:39 GMT, E Brown <epbrow…@att.net> wrote:
> Hey, I bought an ’83 928S this weekend, US-spec, which gives me all
>three models sold in the US that year, each in Guards Red with black
>leather interior.
> I hate trying to ship a car (expensive, always takes too long), so
>I flew to the east coast and drove it back to Chicago over the
>weekend. Had a bit of adventure when the fuel pump relay died on me
>500 miles from home. I managed to jerry-rig it and make it the rest of
>the way home. Other than that, the car is great.
> Of course, this purchase means I won’t be getting the Bimmer…
> Emanuel
Enjoy the 928 & congrats on filling out the stable
David
‘course if you want a little Bimmer to go with…my Z3 is for sale
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
What draws 28 Amps is the clutch winding, not the actual compressor. If
you are really lucky, you may be able to replace only the clutch
components. However, frequently when the winding shorts out like yours
has it is due to worn out bearings in the compressor. If you can get a
rebuilt compressor for $350, I’d go for it. If it is just a used part
(not rebuilt) I’d stay away from it.
There are lots of references to R-12 -> R134a conversions on the web. It
seems that getting rid of all the old mineral oil in the system is
important, as it is not compatible with R134a and/or the lubricant used
with R134a. There are also recommendations to replace the rubber of
O-rings, as the kind used with R-12 may deteriorate with R134a and the
new lubricant. I have also read that this is not that big of a problem.
If I were to do the conversion, I’s take care to get the old oil out,
but I’d let the O-rings be. Chances are the old ones are just fine. When
and if they do fail would be the time to replace them, since R134a is
cheap to replenish.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Phil Robyn wrote:
> Turns out my A/C compressor is drawing 28 amps instead of
> the normal 3 amps, thus frying the 25-amp fuse and heat-
> damaging the wiring around the fuse every so often. So it
> looks like a new compressor is a must. Should I go for a
> new one at $700.00 or a used one at about half that price?
> Is this a good time to convert to R134? What other costs
> would be involved? All recommendations and suggestions
> gratefully accepted!
> —
> Phil Robyn
> Univ. of California, Berkeley
> 1987 E28 535is
> 1991 E34 M5
> u n z i p m y a d d r e s s t o s e n d e – m a i l
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Randolph wrote:
> What draws 28 Amps is the clutch winding, not the actual compressor. If
> you are really lucky, you may be able to replace only the clutch
> components. However, frequently when the winding shorts out like yours
> has it is due to worn out bearings in the compressor. If you can get a
> rebuilt compressor for $350, I’d go for it. If it is just a used part
> (not rebuilt) I’d stay away from it.
> There are lots of references to R-12 -> R134a conversions on the web. It
> seems that getting rid of all the old mineral oil in the system is
> important, as it is not compatible with R134a and/or the lubricant used
> with R134a. There are also recommendations to replace the rubber of
> O-rings, as the kind used with R-12 may deteriorate with R134a and the
> new lubricant. I have also read that this is not that big of a problem.
> If I were to do the conversion, I’s take care to get the old oil out,
> but I’d let the O-rings be. Chances are the old ones are just fine. When
> and if they do fail would be the time to replace them, since R134a is
> cheap to replenish.
Hi, Randolph:
Thanks for your informative response. I suspect that the bearings are
probably worn out in the compressor, so I have decided to replace it with
a new (not used or rebuilt) one. I have also decided to stick with R12
instead of converting.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Phil Robyn wrote:
>>Turns out my A/C compressor is drawing 28 amps instead of
>>the normal 3 amps, thus frying the 25-amp fuse and heat-
>>damaging the wiring around the fuse every so often. So it
>>looks like a new compressor is a must. Should I go for a
>>new one at $700.00 or a used one at about half that price?
>>Is this a good time to convert to R134? What other costs
>>would be involved? All recommendations and suggestions
>>gratefully accepted!
>>–
>>Phil Robyn
>>Univ. of California, Berkeley
>>1987 E28 535is
>>1991 E34 M5
>>u n z i p m y a d d r e s s t o s e n d e – m a i l
–
Phil Robyn
Univ. of California, Berkeley
u n z i p m y a d d r e s s t o s e n d e – m a i l
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
"Phil Robyn" <zippro…@berkeley.edu> wrote in message
news:2ibsdgFlpsscU1@uni-berlin.de…
> Randolph wrote:
> Thanks for your informative response. I suspect that the bearings are
> probably worn out in the compressor, so I have decided to replace it with
> a new (not used or rebuilt) one. I have also decided to stick with R12
> instead of converting.
Curious about your reasoning…. I would have gone R134a in that situation.
In fact I did once upon a time.
Care to share?
-Russ.
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
Worn bearings won’t cause the fuse to blow. That is the clutch.
"Phil Robyn" <zippro…@berkeley.edu> wrote in message
news:2iadmcFl083lU1@uni-berlin.de…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Turns out my A/C compressor is drawing 28 amps instead of
> the normal 3 amps, thus frying the 25-amp fuse and heat-
> damaging the wiring around the fuse every so often. So it
> looks like a new compressor is a must. Should I go for a
> new one at $700.00 or a used one at about half that price?
> Is this a good time to convert to R134? What other costs
> would be involved? All recommendations and suggestions
> gratefully accepted!
> —
> Phil Robyn
> Univ. of California, Berkeley
> 1987 E28 535is
> 1991 E34 M5
> u n z i p m y a d d r e s s t o s e n d e – m a i l
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
Rod Gray wrote:
> Worn bearings won’t cause the fuse to blow. That is the clutch.
Correct, but worn bearings can cause the clutch to fail. Clearances are
small, so with worn bearings the rotating parts can start to rub through
the insulation on the clutch coil and eventually you get a short to
ground.
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Somebody wrote:
> "Phil Robyn" <zippro…@berkeley.edu> wrote in message
> news:2ibsdgFlpsscU1@uni-berlin.de…
>>Randolph wrote:
>>Thanks for your informative response. I suspect that the bearings are
>>probably worn out in the compressor, so I have decided to replace it with
>>a new (not used or rebuilt) one. I have also decided to stick with R12
>>instead of converting.
> Curious about your reasoning…. I would have gone R134a in that situation.
> In fact I did once upon a time.
> Care to share?
> -Russ.
Bavarian Professionals in Berkeley, which works on both of my BMWs, will guarantee
a new compressor but not a used or rebuilt one, so I don’t want to take the chance
of having to pay for another three hours’ labor if a used or rebuilt compressor
turned bad and had to be replaced. I talked over the R134 conversion with them,
and their experienced opinion is that I would be better off sticking with freon
and not converting, at least not with this car. So I am basically going with
their recommendations.
Thanks to everybody who responded to my question! You guys are great!
–
Phil Robyn
Univ. of California, Berkeley
1987 E28 535is
1991 E34 M5
u n z i p m y a d d r e s s t o s e n d e – m a i l
Comment by admin — July 28, 2010 @ 2:35 am